
I think the first time I ever had cholent was in Kansas City at my grandparents’ house. My bubbe — yes, the same one who gives the weather each day in the Morning Light — made it when I was about 6 or 7. I took one look, made a face, and decided cholent and I were not meant to be. My Zayde glanced over and said, “Boychik, that face could sink a thousand ships.”
That same face showed up later for other Jewish foods too: gefilte fish, anything resembling a tangine and of course, honey cake. So, after so many run-ins with food, I’m wondering. Maybe the problem wasn’t the food. Maybe the problem is — me.
So, when I heard the Cholent Cook-Off St. Louis was marking its 10th anniversary this year, I figured it was time to give this legendary dish another chance or at least try understand it. And for that education, I turned to someone who really knows his cholent: Max Oppenheimer, president of Young Israel of St. Louis and the man who has been shepherding this crockpot showdown since day one.
What is cholent?
According to my cousin David Deitchman, our bubbe pretty much made what is now known as “classic cholent,” which is really just the basics done right, even if 6-year-old me wasn’t having any of it.
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It usually starts with onions and potatoes, then a generous layer of beef stew meat and, if you are going all in, a few marrow bones. Most recipes add barley and kidney beans then a warm spice mix like paprika, cumin, turmeric and a little chili powder. My Bubbe would drizzle honey on top, some add kishka and everything gets covered with water before it cooks low and slow over night.
Cholent: A decade-long tradition
Oppenheimer’s love of cholent competitions goes back to his Yeshiva University days, where the student-run cook-off was an annual highlight. “It was something I wished I had back home,” he told me. When his rabbi at the time, Rabbi Moshe Shulman, asked if he could create a program for the shul, Oppenheimer didn’t hesitate, he pitched a cholent cook-off.
Now, what started as a nostalgic idea a decade ago has become a beloved community event, one that fills the YISTL social hall with people across generations, backgrounds and neighborhoods.
“Pardon the cliche but it really is beautiful to see our community come together. While Young Israel is a modern orthodox shul, the Cholent Cook Off attracts people from all over the community, regardless of age, background or level of observance,” said Oppenheimer. “Last year’s event brought a big smile to my face because we even had residents attend from the Crown Center down the street.”
For Oppenheimer, the dish itself is only part of the magic. “Cholent has a kind of slow-cooked warmth that’s hard to understand until you’ve experienced it,” he said. “Even if you didn’t grow up with it, there’s something comforting and timeless about it.”
Meet the chefs
The 2025 lineup is packed: Jenna and Ephraim Abrams, Maurie Axelbaum, Rabbi Josh Bregman, Sara Fink, Chananel Gutovich, Nachum Matten, Lisa Tager, Chaim Treisser, Mariam Weisel, YKHS and Tziona Zeffren.
Oppenheimer says each cook brings a different philosophy to the pot, and he’s especially excited to see younger entrants joining the competition.
“Yeshivat Kadimah High School has fielded a team for several years now, and this year a local teen is even entering on his own, a sign that cholent pride may be becoming a multigenerational affair,” said Oppenheimer.
Rabbi Josh Bregman is the traditionalist, and he wears that title proudly. “I’ve been making cholent weekly for my shul since 2018, and I’ve used the exact same recipe every single time,” he said. “No experiments, no surprises. The crowd likes consistency.”
Lisa Tager works from a classic base but treats each batch like a quiet upgrade.“I’m sticking to a traditional recipe and bringing in the best ingredients to make it shine,” she said. “I adjust depending on what flavor I’m craving.” For her, cholent is part memory, part mood, part game of gentle tinkering.
Then there is Sara Fink, who entered the competition for the simplest reason of all: she just loves cooking. “I enjoy sharing my recipes and getting new ones,” she said. What she is most excited for is the chance to taste every cholent in the room and see the full range of what people create. “I’m excited to taste everyone’s cholent,” she said.
Make peace with cholent?
Talking with Oppenheimer and the cooks made something click. Cholent isn’t just a stew. It’s a memory and a ritual and a way of slowing down when the rest of the week doesn’t let you. It’s the smell of Shabbos morning drifting through a house, a pot that holds more than ingredients and a dish that has been carried from one generation to the next.
Do I love cholent now? It’s too soon to tell. But maybe this year, instead of making the face that’ll sink “a thousand ships,” I’ll try something new. Maybe I’ll take a bite — and let the cholent decide.
Young Israel Cholent Cook-Off 2025
When: Wednesday, Dec. 3; 7 – 8 p.m.
Where: Young Israel of St. Louis, Social Hall, 8101 Delmar Blvd.
What to Expect: Sample cholent from competitors and vote for your favorite.
Cost: $5
More Info: Open to the entire community. All proceeds support Young Israel programming.