Bad cake, travel are key ingredients for cookbook author Beranbaum
Published October 29, 2014
Rose Levy Beranbaum is one of our era’s most prolific and highly regarded cookbook authors. Her books have earned top awards in the culinary world from such prestigious organizations as the James Beard Foundation and the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Now out with her 10th book, “The Baking Bible,” Beranbaum once again demonstrates her vast baking knowledge, creativity, attention to detail and determination to help every baker succeed regardless of skill level.
Even if you have never before baked, Beranbaum’s recipe notes, detailed storage instructions, Golden Rules and steps for avoiding failure will guide you through the process with confidence.
Everything is doable, whether you prefer to start with some of the simpler recipes, such as blueberry buckle, frozen pecan tart and hamantaschen, or are ready to take on more complex recipes, such as the chocolate hazelnut mousse tart, babka and pasta folla.
Once you get started, you’ll never want to stop. With sections on cakes, pies and other pastries, cookies and candy, and breads and yeast pastries, “The Baking Bible” is one of the more comprehensive baking cookbooks. It belongs on every cook’s bookshelf.
I had the pleasure of interviewing Beranbaum recently. Here are some excerpts from our conversation.
Was anyone in your family the inspiration for your career in baking and food writing?
No. My mother was a dentist. She worked full time, and my grandmother cooked for us. We didn’t have sweets in our home other than candy.
I didn’t have my first real cake until I went away to college at the University of Vermont. I was struck by how bad the texture of that cake was. I ended up majoring in food science and pursuing my master’s degree in food science and culinary arts from (New York University). I wrote my master’s thesis on flour, specifically on whether sifting flour mattered.
So, does sifting really matter?
Sifting flour makes your measurements more accurate. A kitchen scale does a better job of that. The only time that sifting actually makes a difference is when a recipe has you add the flour after all the other ingredients have already been mixed together. At that point, sifting your flour will ensure a smooth, rather than lumpy, batter. That being said, combining all the dry ingredients together in your mixer first is actually beneficial. Your cake will have better texture, and it will taste better.
“The Baking Bible” is your 10th cookbook. That’s a lot of recipes. Where do you get your ideas for so many new recipes?
Travel has been a great inspiration for me. I’ve been to India, Japan, Italy, France, Israel — I can’t think of where I haven’t been. Traveling has given me the opportunity to gather new ideas and create new and exciting recipes.
Other food writers have also inspired me. Maida Haetter’s books make me want to make every one of her recipes. I also felt very close to Julia Child, whose recipes provide so much information and detailed instructions. I know that long recipes turn people off. However, it’s the detail of those recipes that makes cooking or baking from them so pleasurable and foolproof.
Flo Braker and Alice Medrich have recipes that produce cakes and pastries that are elegant and perfectly delicious. And even though many of Medrich’s pastries are French, they are not cloyingly sweet like many we generally associate with that genre.
I learned a lot of what I know on my own, developing new ideas and new recipes. Early on, I studied cake decorating at Wilton, and have studied with wonderful chefs such as James Beard. After lots of experimenting, I attended Paris Le Notre, a school for pastry chefs.
Did you always know you wanted to be a cookbook writer and baker?
Actually, I wanted to be an opera singer. In fact, three of my cakes in “The Cake Bible” are dedicated to opera singers. I just didn’t have the voice. I discovered that writing about food was satisfying on so many levels, from the visual and the craft to the science.
In this era of health-conscious eating, does dessert have a place?
People will always crave sweets. Moderation is key. If you have just one small slice of an exceptional pie, or one perfect cookie, that’s a treat that will be satisfying.
In my home, dessert does not necessarily follow dinner. Desserts are hard to enjoy on a full stomach. Because I bake a lot during the day, we enjoy desserts all day. Better to have cakes and pastries midafternoon, perhaps with a cup of tea, the way the English do it.
What is your favorite cake to bake for the Jewish holidays?
I love baking honey cake, the recipe for which is in my new book. It is a little sweeter than most of the cakes I bake. However, on the Jewish New Year, it is traditional to have something sweeter.
I really enjoy coming up with recipes for Passover desserts, though I don’t believe in using matzah meal. I’d rather use ground nuts or almond meal or other Passover-approved ingredients. And I really love making hamantaschen for Purim and rugelach any time of the year.
If you had to pick a favorite recipe from your new book, what would it be and why?
Kouign Amanns. They are delicious and so exciting to make. The “Cadillac Café Bread Pudding” is another one of my favorites. The recipe is so approachable, and the combination is magical. Anyone can make it. When the bread absorbs the milk chocolate, it tastes like cake. The pudding is a beautiful contrast in texture and flavor: creamy, crunchy and soft.
When entertaining at home, do you prefer baking one of your tried-and-true recipes, or experimenting?
When I test recipes, it’s more controlled. When entertaining, there are so many other things to deal with. Entertaining is not the time to experiment.
Has the Internet changed your cookbook audience?
It has created a community of bakers all over the world. For example, I’m not at high altitude, which means that I don’t have the same baking challenges that others may have. We can discuss the challenges, forum style, and come up with some remedies. Also, with all the proofing and scrutiny that go into writing and publishing a book, there will always be mistakes. The Internet makes it possible to post a correction quickly should one of my readers find a mistake. The Internet enables you to locate hard-to-find ingredients.
What advice do you have for the novice baker?
The most important thing any baker can do is to follow the recipe exactly as it is written the first time around. Also, you should own a kitchen scale. It will make baking easier, and your cakes and cookies will turn out better.
For people who are afraid of baking, I promise that baking from my book is a good way to start. Though my recipes may seem long, that’s because I provide all of the details to guarantee success. I have a great track record for publishing successful recipes. My testers, publishers and I strive to make sure everything is just right.
Rose Levy Beranbaum
When: 1 p.m. Wednesday, Nov. 12
Where: Jewish Community Center Staenberg Family Complex, 2 Millstone Campus Drive
How much: $15
More info: Includes dessert treats from the author’s cookbook. Call 314-442-3299 or visit stljewishbookfestival.org