Out of Range
Published November 18, 2010
Canyon. Only one percent make it to the bottom. Last week Steve and
I became members of this elusive club.
The view from the edge of the Grand Canyon is breathtaking. To
climb down (and out) on your own two feet is life changing … or
at least a memory for a lifetime. For Steve and me, dressed in our
tell-tale brand spanking new <span class=
“blsp-spelling-error”>REI gear, it was all of the
above.
A trip down the South <span class=
“blsp-spelling-error”>Kaibab trail is measured in
milestones, not miles. Drop a few switchbacks off the edge and the
brisk rim breeze subsides. A few more and the temperature begins to
rise. The 360 view from the famous <span class=
“blsp-spelling-error”>Kaibab Limestone — dubbed the bathtub
ring — can only be explained as <span class=
“blsp-spelling-corrected”>otherworldly. And it nearly is
with geologic exposures in the inner gorge nearly two billion years
old. Skeleton Point provides the first view of the Colorado River
and the utter disbelief that such a humble stream of water could
have created such a majestic sight. The Tip Off Point literally
tips you into the gorge and towards the <span class=
“blsp-spelling-error”>Kaibab Suspension <span class=
“blsp-spelling-corrected”>Bridge <span class=
“blsp-spelling-corrected”>constructed from cables carried
down on the backs of men when the mules could not manage. A pitch
black tunnel leads to the bridge that is the gateway to the famous
Phantom Ranch and our home for 3 days: Bright Angel
Campground.
To say that less is more when it comes to camping in the Grand
Canyon is an understatement. Whatever you carry in, you’re carrying
out and up 5000 feet. (Thankfully our travel companions
from Montreal considered the two bottles <span class=
“blsp-spelling-error”>of white wine a “necessity.”) The best
thing about camping at Bright Angel is the <span class=
“blsp-spelling-corrected”>camaraderie. An instant connection
that everyone has traveled under their own power and for their own
very personal reasons into one of the seven natural wonders of the
world. It’s a place where respecting one’s <span class=
“blsp-spelling-corrected”>neighbors means not hanging dirty
socks in trees to dry or banging the lid to the ammo box that holds
your food in the early morning. Dimming one’s headlamp on a dark
trail is an expected <span class=
“blsp-spelling-corrected”>courtesy. Campground “Quiet Hours”
are from 8 p.m. to 6 a.m. And it’s actually quiet but for the sound
of the river and the million twinkling stars in the sky.
Regardless of the hour there are noises that you will
never hear in the canyon. No cars or sirens. No mindless
television. No beeping and blaring video games. And, most
notably, no cell
phones. Or their companion one-side cell phone conversations.
You see, there’s no cell phone coverage in the canyon. Not because
it’s impossible. It is. But because some wise person has thankfully
preserved a spot where
it’s impossible to divide your attention between your
phone and life.
And such was life for us … at least for three days. Undivided
attention for Steve. For me. And for the beautiful place we were
blessed with the good health to climb down into and, eventually,
out of. That alone was worth the miles of hiking and the 5000
vertical feet.
Our guide warned that real life returns quickly once you’ve hiked
to Skeleton Point where spotty coverage returns. Listen closely and
you may even hear the tell tale “You’ve Got Mail.” Steve and I did
not succumb to temptation quite so soon. We held off to the top.
Seated in the El Tovar
Lounge, wine in hand, we hit “Power” and one by one the sea of
emails rushed in along with the overwhelming feeling that we’d
missed something. A deadline at work. Snack for preschool. The
school nurse. A <span class=
“blsp-spelling-corrected”>panicked (babysitting)
grandparent. We were, after all, integral to the spinning of the
world. Right? Well, apparently not. It kept right on spinning. Our
colleagues worked on. The kids survived. And the grandparents
managed. Perhaps the only thing missed was an extra cheap massage
on Groupon … which I
could have used right about then.
So what did I learn? That the world does keeps spinning
even if I am not connected every moment. That if it’s okay to sign
off for three days in the wilderness, then it is certainly okay to
sign off to give all of the things important to me in my life my
undivided attention. Like my husband. And my children. And the joke
that Ben has to tell me, again, on the way home. All of those
precious moments in life that are far more important than whether
I’ve immediately returned a message, mindlessly read <span class=
“blsp-spelling-error”>Facebook status or otherwise used my
phone for some purpose that Alexander Graham Bell surely never
intended.
Last year we vowed to slow down on <span class=
“blsp-spelling-error”>Shabbat. To take it in. And to turn
the rest off. We’ve done a pretty good job in that respect, but
there’s room for improvement the other six days of the week. I’m
ready.
So if you email me and I take a few days to answer, now you know
why.