Culture abroad: Jewish tradition continues to thrive in Rome
Published October 28, 2011
Every Jewish family has their own traditions, whether it’s family dinners on Shabbat and the High Holidays or eating carrot kugel on Passover. In America, and around the world, these customs spawn from two main Jewish rites: Ashkenazi and Sephardi.
Few people know, however, that there are more than these two rites. Among these other forms of Judaism are the Roman Jews. Europe’s oldest surviving community, Roman Jews have their own traditions, food, and history in Italy.
Since the 3rd century B.C.E., Jews have lived in Rome. They originally fled Israel, their homeland, because of overcrowding and trouble with other countries taking over their land. Before Italy was a Christian country, Jews were tolerated, and even friends with rulers such as Julius Caesar. When Christians took over, however, they were discriminated against and persecuted, although no physical violence broke out. Jews were shown they were not wanted because they were taxed more and given much difficulty, dating back to 1310. In 1555, however, a Ghetto was built and Jews were isolated from society.
Pope Paul IV gave Jews little freedom during this time. They were forced to don yellow “Jewish signs,” like the Stars of David once worn during the Holocaust. Only one synagogue was allowed per town, but there was little money to have one. With the unification of Italy in 1870, the Ghetto walls were destroyed and Jews were given equal rights after 315 years. Now, Italian Jews have their own culture, called Nusach Italki, or, in Hebrew, Romanim.
Neither Sephardi (Oriental or Arab Jews) nor Ashkenazi (Eastern European Jews), Roman Jews follow ancient customs, the same ones as those from the Land of Israel. Italian-Jewish prayer books are said to contain parts from the Judaean/Galiliaean Jewish tradition, as opposed to the Babylonian tradition, which is found in Sephardi and Ashkenazi prayer books. All Roman Jews worship in Orthodox synagogues, although some practice more than others. While Ashkenazi and Sephardi Jews are still found in Italy, they are not located in Rome and do not live in a certain community. Along with their own culture, Italian Jews also have their own style of cooking, cucina ebraica.
Most cucina ebraica recipes began in the Roman Ghetto. Possibly the most famous specialty, fried artichokes, carciofi alla guidea, can be found in almost any restaurant in the Portico d’Ottavia, the Jewish quarter, or sold raw in stands. Some dishes have even spread around cities and become customary meals on different occasions, such as cassola, a dessert created by Roman Jews in the Ghetto, a mix between pudding and light cheesecake. Many Romans now serve it traditionally at Christmas dinner.
Pesce en saor, a cold fish dish marinated in sweet-and-sour sauce, then fried and topped with raisins and pine nuts, is traditionally eaten by all of Venice every July to celebrate the anniversary of the end of the plague that struck there is 1576. Jews have made this dish since ancient times. A lot of Italian-Jewish cooking is considered food for the poor, as vegetables are commonly used as a substitute for meat and fish or with it to make it more flavorful, last longer, and make the dish larger.
The unique Nusach Italki culture has survived for thousands of years, and still retains its original traditions and values. Even today, after great discrimination, the Holocaust, and lingering anti-Semitism, Italian Jews are just as proud of their religion as they were when they moved from their homeland.