Day two in Jerusalem

Day two of the Israel adventure continues with more in Jerusalem, including Yad Vashem, the Holocaust museum, as well as the Israel Museum where the Dead Sea Scrolls are exhibited and Machaneh Yehuda market (shuk), where we got to see first hand the craziness that is this city as everyone prepares for Sabbath.

I had been to Israel once before, 25 years ago, and visited Yad Vashem then, but of course it is completely different since the museum was rebuilt and reopened six years ago. First of all, this triangular concrete prism, 200 yards long, is an architectural marvel. I remember leaving the museum the first time I was here and not being able to speak, so choked with emotion. This time, I felt differently, not because the museum is any less impactful but because the Shoah is so much more engrained in my consciousness — through visits to at least a half dozen other Holocaust museum over the past 25 years and from my work at the Light and speaking to survivors and the children of survivors. But I will say the memory that plays over in my head hours after my visit is the Children’s Memorial dedicated to the 1.5 million children murdered by the Nazis. A single dark room is apparently lit by five candles, but architect Moshe Safdie has positioned 500 mirrors so the candles reflect in what seems an infinite number as the names of the children and countries of origins are read by a voice narrator. The effect is chilling.

Switching gears entirely, the Machaneh Yeduda shuk was absolutely wild this afternoon, redefining the phrase ”riotously busy.” This narrow market with stalls on either side of the long, winding alley (and side streets) was jammed with locals, elbowing one another and buying everything from spices to fruits to vegetables to meat to fresh fish to the most delicious chocolate rugelach (called marzipan) I ever tasted. In my quest for the best hummus in Israel, I’d have to add Rega Shel to the list, which specializes in hummus topped with spicy beef and some of the freshest pita around. Managed by nice folks who explained that it’s cheaper to get the pita on a napkin rather than a plate. Who knew? 

Day one in Jerusalem 

May 3, 2012: Well, I arrived in Israel yesterday after what seemed like the longest day in history, only to realize I had completely lost an entire day. How does that happen?

First stop: Jerusalem. I’m with a small group of journalists from the Midwest, on a trip arranged by the Israeli Tourism Ministry in Chicago. Our Israeli guide, Ofir Yacobson, is incredibly knowledgeable and has put together an itinerary that had us going from the minute we woke up (7 a.m.) until just a few minutes ago, which is 11 p.m. here. Suffice it to say, I am on brain overload.

I find it interesting that Israel possibly has the most rigorous program in the world for its tour guides. The program for certification is two years and the curriculum easily mirrors a master’s degree. Ofir is tremendous and  incredibly generous in sharing all of his knowledge. But by about 3 p.m. on our stop at  the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, I was absorbing maybe 50 percent.

One of today’s highlights was  touring the City of David, which is an ongoing archeological excavation of ancient Jerusalem, parts of which opened to the public only five months ago. It’s actually located outside the walls of today’s Old City, south of the Temple Mount. About 30 to 40 people work daily on the excavation, and at one point we found ourselves walking through underground tunnels where 2,000 Jews died in 70 AD when the Romans set fire to the Second Temple. If you find yourself traveling to Jerusalem, don’t miss this site and allow about two hours.

Since it was Thursday, several bar mitzvahs were occurring, simultaneously, at the Western Wall.  Tuesdays and Thursdays are the days when these celebration typically are held here and with today’s near perfect weather, I couldn’t imagine a better day for such a wonderful celebration. Like a bazillion other visitors, I stood on a plastic chair in the “women’s section” and snapped pictures of the festivities, which of course were held on the men’s side of the partition. Tomorrow we will go back to the wall as Shabbat approaches, which should be incredibly moving, though I have to say I was pretty much enthralled by all the action and emotion I witness today.